
Mussels and Clams - Fruits of the Sea
Fresh shellfish the ocean’s sweetest of treats. With flavors and textures so diverse they defy description, shellfish are among the most delectable foods of the land or sea.
When it comes to shellfish, I go nutso over bi-valves (think mussels and clams). Few foods can match the bliss lurking in a steaming plate of perfectly prepared mussels or clams, and like all ingredients; understanding is the first step to successful preparation. Here are some tips and recipes to help you make the most of this fruit of the sea. Buon Appetito – Salùte! Chef Michaelangelo (mick) Rosacci, Tony’s Meats & Specialty Foods |

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Mussels
There are two varieties common in the U.S., the Blue Mussel and the Green Mussel. The Blue mussel thrives in cooler waters on both the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, but the finest are said to come from Canada’s Prince Edward Island. Commonly called black mussels (since they are more black than blue), they’re available live in local seafood markets much of the year.
Green Mussels, commonly called Green Lipped Mussels, come from New Zealand and are almost twice the size of black mussels. They’re readily available frozen on the half shell, but can also be found live now and again. Meaty and delicious, even frozen Green mussels are easy to fall in love with.
Ideally, mussels should be closed, but with the stress of travel they often arrive partially open and are just fine. If you have any doubts, give them a sniff – they should boast the briny scent of the sea. Live mussels need to breathe, place them in a bowl, cover with a damp cloth and store in the refrigerator. When it’s time to cook, scrub them with a pot scrubber and remove the tuft of threads (beard) with a firm tug and they’re ready to cook. Mussels can also be perked up as they clean themselves by soaking in sea-salted water like clams.Mussels are delicious steamed or simmered in soups or sauces, when they open wide, they’re ready to eat. Thawed mussels on the half shell are cooked and need only to be warmed in a sauce, a soup, or under the broiler. |
Clams
There are at least 8 varieties of clams available in this country, but you’ll rarely be able to find more than one or two varieties at any given time. The most popular are hard shell Quahog (pronounced Ko-Hog) clams from the Atlantic. The smallest Quahogs are called ‘Littlenecks’ and are 1.5 – 2.25 inches across. With their tender meat and briny juice, they’re prized for steaming and eating raw. Medium sized Quahogs (2.25-3 inches across) are called Cherrystones. While they’re also delicious steamed, their size also makes them perfect for stuffing.
Less common locally are Atlantic soft shell clams (also called steamers, fryers and long-necks) and razor clams, whose shell looks like an old fashion razor. Both of these have open shells that do not close thanks to a protruding siphon or foot.
From the other coast we sometimes see Pacific Littlenecks (not quite as tender as Atlantic littlenecks), and Manila clams (a.k.a. Japanese clams). Manila clams are not native to our Pacific coast, but have rapidly become one of the most important Pacific coast species thanks to their wonderful texture and flavor.
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Choosing Clams
Generally with hard shell species, the smaller the clam, the more tender, flavorful, and expensive it will be. But medium sized clams can be quite delicious! All hard shell clams should be closed, or close with a gentle tap before buying and cooking.
Soft Shell Species, or those with a protruding foot, will not have closed shells, but should be moving or react to touch. |
Preparing Clams
Clams live in the sand, so getting rid of the grit is job one. Dissolve 1/4 cup of fine sea salt (Kosher salt will work in a pinch) into each quart of cool water. Soak the clams until water looks dirty (stirring from time to time), brush clean and put back into clean salted water. Repeat if needed.
Both soft and hard shell clams are excellent steamed or simmered in sauces or soups, and most can be shucked and eaten raw or fried. Cook until the shells are gaping wide open and serve immediately. Clams take quite a bit longer to open than mussels, and the larger they are the longer they take to cook. Discard any clams that do not open, they are probably dead and sometimes filled with mud and yuck.
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